The Problem with Gooseberries
Gooseberries are a go-to descriptor for Sauvignon Blanc—especially New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. But honestly, how many of us wine professionals have actually experienced these berries? Have you had gooseberries? What do they smell like? How do they taste?
Based on years of listening to industry people throw around descriptors without personal experience (“tropical fruits”…can you be more specific?), I’m willing to bet that most of us have no idea.
To prove my point: a seasoned wine professional—nearly three decades in the industry—was pouring me a South African Sauvignon Blanc. Without prompting, he confidently described the nose as having “classic gooseberry notes.” Just the day before, I had been discussing with a colleague how ridiculous this exact descriptor was. So, I seized the opportunity to ask: “Have you ever had gooseberries before?”
With absolute certainty, he replied, “No, I’ve never had gooseberries, but when I think about what they would taste like, this is it.”
The conviction in his answer—wow!
Years ago, when I was just starting my wine journey as a consumer (before quickly pivoting into the profession), I would have been in awe. I would have been impressed by his ability to describe wine so precisely and aspired to his level of knowledge. I wouldn’t have questioned a thing. But in that moment, he had just regurgitated a descriptor I’ve heard countless times—one he had no personal experience with.
“We can only come up with a description for molecule mixtures that we recognize from experience, or for individual molecules that we recognize as being a prominent part of familiar mixtures….we can’t recognize and evaluate a flavor or smell unless we’ve actually experienced it or something like it before.
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Gooseberry is just one example of the many recycled descriptors in the language of wine. And this is a problem.
When we, as an industry, rely on memorized and regurgitated language rather than personal experience, we reinforce a culture of wine that feels intimidating and unwelcoming—especially to those just beginning their wine journey or considering a career in the field.
People often ask why I got into wine, and I always say that one of its most beautiful aspects is its ability to bring people together. But that connection isn’t possible if we aren’t genuine in how we talk about wine.
It’s only when we center each other’s sensory memories and cultural taste references in the language of wine that we can truly invite more people to the (wine) table.
